Do fairness creams work magic?

Fairness creams for the face is a fascination among women all over the globe. These days, men are also looking for effective ways to whiten their skin.

Many people want to lighten their skin only for the purpose of looking attractive. But there are also people who genuinely require a skin lightening cream for the face spots and unpleasant acne marks.We asked skin experts if there’s truly any magic bottled in those whitening vials.

It works
Dr Jamuna Pai says, “All whitening creams work by inhibiting Tyrosinase that is required for the production of melanin, which gives colour to Asian skin tones. The active ingredients that are present in these creams can be simple ‘berry extracts’ to chemicals like hydroquinone.”

A combination of exfoliants and sunscreen
Cosmetologist Dr Mohan Thomas says that companies that manufacture over-the-counter facial creams often package the products with a promise of skin whitening that can be achieved by continuous use. While they boast of ingredients such as exotic metals, minerals and plant extracts, the only approved ingredients that has shown whitening effects on Asian skin are ‘Hydroquinone’ in two per cent and four per cent creams, Arbutin and Kojic acid, which are plant extracts, Alpha Hydroxy acids like Lactic and Glycolic acids and Vitamins C and A. Hydroquinone, Arbutin and Kojic acid reduce ‘melanin’, the pigment produced by melanocytes, which gives colour to the skin while other substances exfoliate the skin thus replacing the older skin cells and darker pigment with new cells having less pigment.

Hence the combined use of exfoliaters and depigmenting agents along with use of a sun screen is required for skin whitening. Combination of therapies using creams, chemical peels and lasers for resurfacing (not all lasers are effective on Asian skin) are usually needed for blemish-free skin whitening.

Whitening is not bleaching
Dr Sunita More, cosmetologist says that it is true that whitening creams can help to some extent to brighten the skin tone. Making that part one or two shades fairer. For the best results, consistent and regular applications for at least two or three months is necessary.

Be aware
According to Dr Debraj Shome, a top plastic surgeon in India,

“Fairness creams have harmful chemicals such as hydroquinone, mercury and other steroids which lead to patchy, rough and spotty skin, and premature ageing. Hydroquinone is a severely toxic and powerful chemical that is used in photo processing, manufacturing of rubber and is also used as an active ingredient in hair dying. Mercury, on the other hand, in the form of mercury chloride and ammoniated mercury, leads to the development of skin cancer. These are just a few of the negative effects of these fairness creams and many companies fail to disclose all the ingredients used in the creams”